New Years Eve 2010

We did a huge amount of nothing today. The kids coloured in and collected seashells. Age literally hung in a hammock and slept. I read junky books overlooking the beach and kids.

We had the most delicious paw paw for morning tea - brought over to us by one of the villagers.

At one point Lilly got her hair braided again as it was starting to look pretty ratty. I got a massage in the massage hut ( a very loose term I can assure you) We ate, we slouched around, we went for a walk along the beach.

I’ve included a photo of our restaurant.. Built on the slopping beach - it sensibly has a sand floor so that the crabs can clean up any crumbs and mess split. 

Later in the evening, after the kids went to bed, Age and I sat on the beach in front of a very small fire. It had rained on and off most of the day - so finding dry kindling and wood to keep it going was an interesting task.

We were joined by the partner of a new arrival. Most of the others ( all 5 of them) had gone to the John Frome Cult evening. Side note here - Its one of the surviving cargo cults; where islanders dance and sing in prayer to their saviour and hope that he brings coca cola and American items to them. The true roots are a bit shady, but it seems that these cults were born out a rejection of the ideals missionaries were forcing the locals into. A figure - mostly a white American man came to all the chiefs and told them to pray to Jesus and to him, but to return also to their traditional way of life and cultural trappings. In return he would bring them modern things to help them. Cults got bigger during the second world war when Americans actually did drop a great deal of things to the islands. 

The celebrations on Fridays are an entire evening ( till dawn) spontaneously lead song and dance party.  Sounds like a good idea to me!  Anyway!

Age saw the new year in, feeding the fire coconut husks and twigs…. andthen it rained on him.

Happy Birthday luv

The Volcano

We readied ourselves for the Volvano trip, bringing head torches and jackets as it gets cold up there. The ride was bumpy and steep as we drove around wash out and through creek beds. This time I rode in the back of the truck with its tiny narrow wooden seats for 18 km of twisty cut in through the muddly trails.  Morgan and Lilly were given some mangos to eat and were shown how the locals consumed them - skin and all.  I was told they were the most delicious and sweetest mangoes they had ever had.. certainly the juiciest and messiest.

The closer we got to volcano, the more apparent the steam and smoke became as it burped out. I wasn’t prepared for the ash plains below though. It was an incredible desert of black ash. We stopped for a while to look up at the volcano as it periodically puffed out its black clouds. The ash constantly feathered down on our faces. Apparently there is a local group who take tourists half way up this side of the volcano with pieces of board - so you can sand board down.  Looked like a steep old trek for a few mins of fun.

Our truck took us around the base of the volcano to the other side and then we began our ascent. It was a bit unsettling to see puffs of smoke rise from the track as we passed and tiny outlets of steam on the side of the road. ( I am using the term road very loosely here)

We arrived at a desolate rocky plateau. I am now sorry not to have taken photos of the toilets there. We were all so excited at getting to the top of the mountain, I forgot it was going to be night time by the time we made our way down.  Basically they were tiny huts built over pits. Thin logs stretched over the hole and rudimentary box with hole in top to sit on. Very scary in the dark I can tell you.. I think I am obsessed with toilets…

Anyway , our guide - beguiled by Miss Lilly, put her on top of his shoulders and carried her to the top, whilst wearing thongs.  Note that the surface was loose ash and rocks and very steep. On the way up, cold, stinging rain pelted down on us.  There wasn’t a patch on us that was dry - not undies.. nothing. 

When we got to the edge and looked over, it was incredible. There was too much noxious smoke to see the pit of bubbling lava - but we only had to wait a few moments before it was shot up in the air in an explosion. Huge sprays of lava and enormous rocks were shot into the air every minute or so. Looking down we could see when the next big explosion was to happen as there was a disturbance in the air, the ground rumbled and then …. BOOM.

We stayed till it was very dark, marvelling at the fireworks display against the night sky.  Coming down wasn’t so hard - especially with our very funky and highly unfashionable head torches.  Despite the bumpy ride back both kids put their heads down and fell asleep.  We were filthy and covered in ash, smelling like a bitumen truck when we got home - but the care factor when we got to our beds rated very lowly.

Day 9 Tanna

We had an early morning flight to Tanna Island and had fully packed the night before.  I’d arranged with reception to get a taxi transfer for 6 am. She really ripped it into the guy over the phone to ensure our booking was not forgotten.

It was therefore a bit of a rude shock to be woken by a bang on the door at quarter to five telling us our taxi was outside and waiting for us. At first I thought we’d all slept in and my heart just pounded. Thankfully the kids were all set and automatically got into their clothes and grabbed their bags to sit in the taxi while we did a final sweep of the rooms.

The airport was only a few mins drive away and of course we got there in bucket loads of time. Locals with their cardboard boxes taped up and coconut frond matting all rolled up lined up in front of the check in desk. It was oppressively hot already at was not even 6.30 am. The trip over was quick and uneventful. Tanna was alot bigger than I had imagined. the airport was a few rooms, but maintained a customs desk as it was an International airport ( flights from New Caledonia were now coming in every week!)  The baggage handling was a laugh. We all waited in an open room where a low desk area thrust out to the tarmac. The baggage guys threw the bags up on the desk and people grabbed them as they landed.   Morgan was a super boy and stood, searching all the bags darting in and out to get ours.

Our transfer was a ute - where the kids sat in the back with one of the Island boys. I tried to get in the back with them - but they wouldn't let me.. I am a bit glad as the sparkle would have well and rely dimmed after an hour and half of kidney shaking, muddy slippery roads.

We arrived at Friendly Bungalows - part of a traditional village a few kms away from the foot of the volcano - our whole reason for coming to the island.  

The beach was pure black. The sand and rocks reflecting in the waves as black water rolled in endlessly. The beach was pretty steep. I was fascinated with the tiny glittering sparkles as the waves withdrew over it. All volcanic rock and ash built up over thousands of eruptions.

I walked the kids down the beach to the end of the cove. I was very proud of Morgan as he went straight into the surf and made friends. He body surfed with locals kids for a bout half an hour until my nerve gave out. I am not a strong swimmer and am very nervous in the waves. It gutted me to have to call him to come in - but I was getting frightened at how far out and deep he was getting as the local kids got braver and braver.

We settled into our hut, delighting in its rustic nature and the view over the beach. Our beds were built up on bamboo and the shower and toilet had no flooring - other than a thick layer of broken coral. No plumbing to take the waste water away - what feel from the sink and the shower went straight on the floor and soaked up underneath.  Again - not going to think too deeply about the loo - it was a slow drain away type thing where the water going to it was equally slow in filling.

One of the local lads climbed the Coconut Palm besides us as quick as winking. he retrieved a coconut each and when he got down, cut them open for us to drink out of.

I'll do a separate post for our trip to the volcano.

Hideaway - Day 8 on Vanuatu

Today we had booked to go to Hideaway Island - one of the most famous here. Our mini bus was supposed to pick us up at 8.30 to take us to the ferry but by 8.45, it still hadn’t turned up.  We weren’t too concerned but I did call and confirm with them.  iWe were assured that it was coming at 9.15 … but at 9.45 still nothing.  V time is very lax, but this was a bit silly.  I called again and found they had forgotten us.  Not to worry, we finally got a chance to catch a local bus over to the ferry.  It was a very short trip across deep water to tiny island. I was a bit disturbed to hear that both this island and Iriki island used to have villages on them, but the people were moved ( forcibly apparently) off to make way for the tourists. 

Completely contrasting to our experience on Pele, this island was set up for tourists in a fast efficient and pretty impersonal way. It was too bad so sad that we had lost 2 hours of time on the island and were shuffled immediately onto a glass bottomed boat.  I was delighted with the method of feeding the fish - a tube down near the glass - where the captain allowed the kids to pour pellets down in regular intervals. Once again we were greeted by giant fish of all sorts, making us very keen to get out and snorkel on our own.

Hideaway Island is home to the only underwater post office. It is personed by a scuba guy every day - he will take special post cards from your hand as you dive down to post them.  Morgans duck diving was very good - so he got to post both our postcards.  We aught to have hired him out as many of the other tourists found it difficult to get the depth and kept handing him their cards to post.

The beach is very steep and covered in sharp coral, so reef shoes are a must. It was sad to see alot of coral close to the beach had been damaged by the amount of tourists who blindly stood and crushed it. Its been a good lesson for our kids and one we stressed every time we went in the water - not to put your feet or hands down and only to surface where you can float freely, and not stand on anything.  Spectacular snorkelling was had very clsoe to the beach. They had several pontoons set up in the deeper parts, to allow swimmers to slither on board and rest.  Lilly went with me this morning and was brilliant.  However she grew tired after about an hour - so I let her sit on the pontoon while I explored some of the deeper parts of the reef.  

Went went into have lunch and straight up on the menu - we all chose fish and chips… guess what?  yep.. no fish.. An island, surrounded by fish, and no fish could be had to eat.

We went on the glass bottomed boat again to be taken out to the further reef and the 80 foot drop off. This kids refused to have lifejackets , but given they had done so well with snorkelling previously, I wasn’t that worried. That safari  was incredible. The variety of fish and coral was mindblowing.  We only had half an hour out, just not long enough. I won’t forget the feeling of space and nothingness as I glid over the drop and into the deep blue.  I felt so alone and so together with the ocean. An incredible moment I wasn’t keen to end.  However, my imagination kicked in and I started to look for giant octopus with slimy tentacles ready to pull me down, freaked myself out with dark shadows deep beneath me and swum like mad to get on the boat again.

We had a little time to explore the pool and eat and icecream after we got back. Age and Morgan went back out to snorkel, but I felt a bit waterlogged.

On the exact stroke of 2.30, a very scary islander woman shouted at all the tourists to line up and get on the boat home.  Its the first time anything on Vanuatu had been on time!  She shuffled us all off and sent us packing quick smart.

The blessing I guess from this was that we got home in a good hour and I had time to pack and sort stuff out before we went out for the evening.  We walked into town to find some fish and chips at the harbour. At last, in a greasy spoon local joint ( underneath the swanky restaurant “Chill”) we enjoyed fish and local chips. There was spotlight out into the harbour which illuminated the masses of fish waiting underneath us for our scraps.  We were rewarded with a sighting of a turtle before we left.

We walked through the park and sat on a concrete seat to watch the fireworks. It seemed that anyone who had them could line up and have a turn at exploding theirs. A rabble of fireworks sellers sat on the fringes to satisfy the pyro in any of the standerbys. 

One of the cafes on the harbour host a free movie night every Sunday and Wednesday nights. They sell popcorn and great icecreams and you basically sit back and watch the movie. It has a short interval in the middle so you can grab a pizza or coffee and then settle back to watch the rest.  Movies are hit and miss - I believe they are whatever the guy can pirate or borrow - so a mix of brand new ones nad documentaries. Sadly the movie was an m rated on tonight - so we didn’t stay long. Just enough to eat an icecream and decide the movie really wasn’t suitable. 

It was a tired walk back home, but at least it didn’t rain on us. One of the young blokes in one of the units had a few fireworks left over from the night before - so invited us to the jetty to watch them get blown up. Spectacular again with lots of laughs.  The last one - the biggest and supposedly the best was set up stuck in the sand.  He lit it and did what it said on the packet - ran. We were all standing on the jetty when it went off. 

You know in the movies when a bomb floats into a room and everyone stands and looks at it?  You in the audience scream “get out!  Run you fool!”.. but everyone still stares at it.?  I now know 1. why fireworks were banned in Australia and 2. what it feels like to be one of those fools in the room. 3. how someone who is standing at the back of a group can be the most injured when one of these things goes off. 

The rocket was stuck too firmly into the sand and didn’t have enough “oomph” to free itself.   So when the explosive which allowed it to shoot up into the sky was exhausted, the next chamber of explosives went off - you know the ones which had the big bangs and coloured flares? One of the flares shot into our stunned group and incredibly bypassed all the adults , hitting Lilly on the upper thigh. Poor little thing had a bad burn, which I immediately treated by throwing her into the pool. She was ok in the end, but it shook most of us leaving out ears ringing for several minutes. 

Pele Island - Day 7 in Vanuatu

Ok, so we had been here a week. Slept in a heap and done a great deal of nothing. This is  the sort of holiday I had never had before. I’d always organised and planned every minute.  Not this time. I’d not organised a single trip or tour, but now was starting to get itchy feet. So yesterday I organised for us to go to two places which boasted great snorkelling. I had been keen to check out the dolphins and the turtles, but were told that the resort which held the rights to this area was under renovations. bummer! There is heaps to do in Vanuatu - from cultural village visits to horse riding to extreme sporting pursuits and obviously all the diving and snorkelling. I feel a bit empirical and snooty but I am a bit over the whole cultural village thing. I’m sure its all very exciting, but can’t help but feel its all too Hollywood and even through the mud and plastered feathers, a bit too glitzy and false. I know its a sign of my exhaustion that I am feeling this intolerance but just cant be bothered.  

We set off for Pele island at 8.30 - the earliest we have had to be organised for ages. We were stuffed into a small van with a very enthusiastic islander, passionate about his countries history. It was a shame that his voice was muffled by the engine as I only caught every few words. In saying ‘tour’ I mean it in the looses terms, our full tour entailing 8 people.  We went half way round the main island, climbing the mountains and ripping down them just as fast. Incredible to see the roads the Americans built in the 2nd world war still maintained by them.  There were plenty of reminders of the war still laying around. One which brought a smile to my face was the American bath - an olympic sized pool built near the shore to capture one of the fresh water streams.  It was used as both recreational and to fill fresh water on ships.. ewwwwww.  The locals now use it to wash their clothes and things.

Our trip out to Pele island was on a small boat and we were given the first bit of safety equipment I’d seen since I arrived - some ancient life jackets. The tour i’d chosen was run by the isnders from Pele and was supposed to be 100% owned and operated by them - ensuring that all the money they made stayed on that tiny island. There are four villages on the island and we had been invited to visit with Chief Georges village. I was delighted to see him on the deserted beach in his chiefdom regalia to welcome us. The chief was a gentle friendly old man, sinewy and strong and obviously very proud of his tropical paradise island. He told us a little about island life and promised to show us around after we went snorkelling.  After some yummy banana chips ( like potato chips) we geared up for a snorkelling safari out on the reef.  Back into a small motor boat, we were taken to a spot between some islands in about 10 metres of water. Morgan and Lilly winged like mad when I insisted they wear lifejackets, but even in the open water here, I was a little apprehensive. I needn’t have been.  I was completely entranced by the most gorgeous coral displays over about four metres of water amongst the breakers. The tow was a bit strong - so even in our super fins, I felt like I was going no-where. Lilly had come into her own with snorkelling and was little a little fish. Morgan was having issues with his mask and as anyone knows - once you start having a crappy time with it - its often the end of a good snorkel.

 He was like an anchor as I dragged him along. He refused to kick as he didn’t like the fins he had and kept wanting to take the life jacket off. Regardless, we did see some fantastic fish and reef. The Chief came and collected Morgan and spoke gently to him, coaxing him back to the boat and allowing me to continue exploring. I could have been there for hours, however there were a few other people on the tour having issues with the depth of the water and freaking out - so we got back in the boat to go to another spot.

The Chief stuffed his wetsuit full of bread and lepta into the water, waving at us to do the same; which we did , sans the bread. A massive school of parrot fish and larger fish surrounded us, all desperate to get to the bread as the Chief swam around laughing.   he then motioned us over to a deeper part of the reef and told us to look down.  Underneath were huge clam shells; rows and rows of them and the biggest parrot fish I’ve seen. he took us around that part of the reef, showing us tiny caves and enormous brain coral.  he was quiet a showman, diving down and ducking into caves and swimming through the arches. 

We got back to the village and was treated to a BBQ lunch with freshly cut pineapple and watermelon for afterwards. We had some free time to just sit and relax on the beach, go swimming or mooch around.

One of the most charming and slightly disturbing additions to the island was the toilet and change room, built especially for the tourists. Over the years and through the countries I’ve been in, we have seen some pretty interesting configurations of loos.

Voted most disgusting was the market place loo in Nadi, where floating sewerage matched the smeared faeces and despite being six month pregnant and busting there was no way I was going there. Its of course followed closely by some of the Greek loos where toilet paper is used and put in a bin beside the loo, and the swilling ones where you squat trying to avoid the waves on the Thailand boats.

However, the royal loo is at Pele Island. Vanuatu.  A full porcelain loo atop a concrete slab and tiled in. It boasts a shelf full of cleaning products and brushes and sits overlooking the beach under a banana leaf hut. No running water or pipes. So - how do you umm actually use it? - You get a bucket of water and force your doings down the u bend and it goes somewhere into the sand. I’m not going to think too much about it actually.

The Chief took us around his village, showing us their tiny church and the water hole they draw all their fresh water from. The well is a hole in the ground , protected by nothing other than a tuft of grass and is about 6 feet deep.  I guess if you lived here, you’d know where it was and not fall down it. He took us to see where all the mats were made and building materials for the homes. he demonstrated how to use the conch shell - his island mobile phone - where announcements were made to other parts of the island. We trekked though the jungle to where the pig fences were. He admitted that they had not been maintained for years and now all the domestic pigs run freely in the village.  I tried to get photos of said pigs, but only managed to get their tails or a rustling branch as they ran past. 

Our trek home was pretty uneventful - most of the people were asleep, including both kids.   Home, they sparked up and yep.. wanted to go swimming. I’ve snapped our pool - where it overlooks the bay.  More fireworks viewing on the jetty before we headed to sleep.  I could get used to all this rest.. I wonder if this is what normal people feel like all the time?

Day 6 in Vanuatu

Once again, outside of our little home of calm and airconditioning, Port Villa was stinking hot - in both senses of the term.  The kids had done well at Christmas with their snorkelling - though had kept hold of our hands as we swum along. Lilly had given up with her mask at one point and opted just to use goggles - which sort of defeated the purpose - but had been happy to keep dipping her head in and out. Adrian was keen to do a longer snorkel adventure and wanted both kids to be more proficient with their skills - so off to our pool to practice some thing they went. 

After a little while, they all got sick of seeing nothing at the bottom of the pool and as it was so hot and yuck, we got a taxi down to the docks to head on over to Iriki again.  We started our snorkel at the beach, getting both kids used to fins and deeper swimming. Our nemo fish were still there guarding their babies, but as we saw a big fish lurking around, we didn’t want to be responsible for distracting them while it ate the babies.. so swum off to look at other things. 

We wandered up to a more casual cafe on the island for lunch. A point needs to be made here about food outlets.. “whats one thing you never take with you when eating out at Port Villa?”…. answer - “ your appetite”…. basically because things can take hours.. and I mean hours to get served. Once again our search for fish and chips was dashed, as was a hope for a simple salad.  Just as well the local beer was cold and quickly served. 

We walked around to Snorkelers cove to test out the kids with deeper water and fins.  The tide was going out - so we had limited time. Lilly and I got lost in the gardens of coral and the beauty of all the tiny blue fish which floated around like flowers.  Both kids did really well with their gear and we sadly had to admit things were getting a bit hairy over the sharp coral before we headed in. 

That night, instead of doing our normal self catering, we took up a tip from the lonely planet and went to the Chinese place that overlooked the harbour - a very easy 4 min walk from our place. The first thing I’d have to say is that it took Adrian and I back 20 years - it was like the Chinese places we used to go to in the Valley - before things got all posh. The smells and steam from the kitchen, the alters and decorations - all delightfully unashamedly Chinese. 

One thing Adrian was keen to try was the famous coconut crab - which they had on the menu. I love crab - but its so fiddly, I often end up not bothering. However, this was a huge crab, full of the juiciest, most succulent meat ever.  I am not sure if I would go as far as saying it was better than lobster - but its a close second. 

We got home pretty late, but went down to the jetty again to enjoy the bay fireworks.  A real mix - with the calmness of being on the dark water, silent stars glittering overhead, and then be disrupted by a plum of colour as fireworks explode beside you.

Day 5 Vanuatu - Our introduction to fireworks.

Everything was blissfully quiet the morning after the earthquake when we all woke up.

Age was still exhausted and slept till past ten, grumbled as his eyes opened and promptly went back to sleep. 

I was thankful I'd packed a bunch of craft and art supplies for the kids to keep active with. They were really good at staying quiet while we slept and getting their own breaky. 

This mornings craft was spent digging away at a block of plaster of paris which promised glow in the dark dinosaur bones. It made a huge mess and produced a few slivers after about half an hour of hard slog. The kids got a bit jack of it, the heat and the flies. I don’t blame them, I was sick of it after a few mins of scoring and digging at it.  My romantic idea of being a archeologist was finally dashed at that moment…

With Adrian still not well and very tired, we decided to go off for the day and wander around the streets and port. The kids were pretty set on seeing what was open and to play on the parks there.

I’d been amazed at the selection and availability of fireworks around. Here in Aust they are banned and only the older ones of us can remember firecracker night.  It seemed every corner store had a display of them outside, as well as any bloke who had a spare set of stairs to prop them up on. So, what does a fine upstanding, sensible mother do when faced with a load of really cheap fireworks with no instructions in English?  Thats right - she goes and buys a bunch.  Well, to say there was no English my be a bit unfair.  Each one had a picture of where to light it or ignite it and the words - “light and run.”

We wandered about town, knowing that most places would be closed, but delighted in the tiny spots where still attracted people. I know I am going to sound really dumb and culturally insensitive here - but there were heaps of people, just sitting around. On stairs, on the street and in the gutters. just accumulated and sitting.  What the heck where they waiting for?  In one spot we found some live music but after a while decided that Vanuatuan music was a little off beat for us.  They certainly had a lot of joy and energy in their exuberant displays of musicianship.  I guess my ears weren’t in tune with them though.  We found a little cafe and on our mission to have fish and chips - found. yep - no fish.. however they did have chips so we ate local yam fries. They are super starchy and sweet.

We found the juice bar down on the docks and while the kids ate ice cream, I had a coffee, discovering that it had free wi fi. It was pretty slow and timed out alot, so I stopped getting excited about it. I did  load up a few photos from Christmas onto facebook, but quickly dismissed the idea of coming here often as it was a good 3 km walk to our place - one way We played connect four on a set that kept dumping all the disks - but made us laugh anyway. It rained spiratically but you kind of get used to the jeckle and hyde nature of the weather where is stinking hot then suddenly pouring with rain. 

We got home to discover Age had gone off exploring by himself for the afternoon and had only just arrived himself.  Morgan proudly displayed all the fireworks we bought and set about telling all the other occupants in the complex about our fireworks display to night.

In inky darkness, we set all the fireworks up along the jetty. The kids loved the small bangers which exploded when you threw them on the ground.  My personal favourite ones were the cherry bombs which you lit and threw into the water.  They exploded from a depth of a few feet, lighting up the watery surrounds.  Boy they were loud if they didn’t reach the water though!  Age set up some fountains at the end of the jetty, which showered silvery spurts into the sky.  

Our finale was a rocket which was stuck into the sand and lit - and everyone ran and hid ( just as the instructions said) It shot off with a huge sizzle and exploded colours into the night sky.  So awesome!  hummm.. might have to buy some more tomorrow!

There were some other young folk there who were equally impressed and promised to take it in turns each night to provide the fireworks.. what fun!

Earthquake

I certainly was enjoying all the extra time sleeping. I can’t recall the last time I had more than 6 hours!  But all good things come to an end they say. Christmas evening - a few hours after everyone had gone to sleep, I woke, feeling pretty ordinary. I blamed having eaten half a cow at lunch time.  A bit of a rude shock for all of our bodies after being vegan for most of the year. I felt feverish suddenly so piled two blankets on top of me while everyone sweltered with the aircon on. The romantic in me says that I felt the disturbance in the earths energy. Its more probable that it was my lunch telling me I was a pig and was now feeling the effects of my overindulgence.

I got up again, uneasy and checked if the kids were ok, then got a drink and went back to bed. I tossed and turned and stared at the dark ceiling, wondering if I was doomed to stare at it for hours till the sun came up. 

Then bed started to shake; not just a little - but violently. At first, I thought Age was having a major seizure. However, I put my hands on him and found he was blissfully snoring on. The bed continued to shake and I started to wonder if I was in a scene of the poltergeist. and then everything stopped.  

I heard dogs howling and knew then it was an earthquake. I got out of bed to check onthe kids and then went outside. Others within the complex were also searching the inky darkness and chatting excitedly.  Further down the street I heard shouting and cars began to beep their horns. 

There didn’t seem to be any damage or anything to do, and given my whole family were still snoring away, I went back to bed and fell quickly asleep.

Later the next morning I found out that it had been a 7.7 with some disturbance with the water levels. However, watching the beach, there didn't seem to be much difference. Perhaps the high tide was larger.  We were warned not to go into the water for the rest of the day; so given that, we planned for a quiet day.

Christmas Day in Vanuatu

The kids had written to Santa and told him that they would not be at home for Christmas and to please leave all their presents under the tree for them when they get back.  He did, however make a stop in at our place and from all appearances, only had one reindeer with him on this rushed trip. The kids were delighted with the chocolate coins and candy canes strewn around the room, as well as the craft and tiny presents on the end of their beds.

We luxuriated in not having to get up and do anything - but decided after a  leisurely breakfast of fruit smoothies and good coffee, that we would go snorkelling and lay about the pool area of Iriki Island. 

I’ll put a note in here about our fruit smoothies. I took along an enormous bag - but in my defence would like ot point out that under half of it was my clothes. The rest was kitchen equipment and food items which would help us maintain a healthy food intake. I am in love with our mini blender we took.  four cups sized blending things which you fill with fruit and stuff , screw on the blades and tip it upside down to pop on the blender.  I have to admit we also used it extensively to make frozen cocktails. 

Anyway - we walked into town and fronted up to the jetty for a quick trip by boat to the island. For a fee, you are allowed to use all their facilities and are granted a voucher to use in the restaurants.  It is pretty pricey - so not something you do every day - around $15 per person.

We were delighted to be greeted by Santa ( who was black - but had a snow white beard) on a truck. He threw lollies at the kids and waved to us as the truck set off around the island. On the back were seated a dozen angels - kids from the school - all singing carols in English ( possibly their fourth language) Surreal… yes.

We fumbled our way around the roads and went to the snorkelling spot. So glad we had our reef shoes as the coral and rocks were pointed and cruel. Morgan and Lilly hadn’t done alot of snorkelling - but were confident swimmers and caught on fairly quickly. Like me, they lost all fear once their heads were stuck under and were marvelling at the sealife. Fantastic coral and large fish swum only metres from the shoreline.  There was hardly any drift - so made it safe for us to explore a huge chunk of the coast. When the tide went out so far it started to make it dangerous for us to look at the coral ( as we floated over our tummies were touching parts of it.)  we decided to seek out something to eat.

Wet, bedraggled and touched with sun, we wandered into a very flash beachside restaurant.  I announced to the family I didn’t care how much it cost - we were eating Chrissy dinner there. So with thoughts of some of the most dreadful days I’d spent teaching as a reward we sat down ( squished down in plush chairs) and or eyes widened at the array of gorgeous food on offer. ( and I know it was a flash lace because the matre di did not lift an eyebrow as we walked in - but showed us to a good spot and brought extra cushions to soak up the sea water...

It truly was a magnificent feast and we enjoyed it immensely. I am not going to say how much it was - but let me say - possibly the most expensive buffet I have ever been to.

Sated, with crappy tissue paper hats on our heads, we left to hang out at the dozen pools.  I secured a lounge and kicked back to read a rubbish vampire book. ( it was particularly bad.. all is forgiven Stephanie!) The kids had a hoot exploring the pools - some shallow and meant for little ones, others swim up bar type ones.  We basically had the place to ourselves. 

When we got sick of that, we headed off to another beach on the other side of the island to where we had been and went snorkelling again. I’d have to say that was much better than the official snorkelling site and much easier to access.  It was straight off the coral beach (no sand here - just crushed coral) it was fairly shallow in most places which made the kids a bit more comfortable.  However there were stone fish and those spiky things with poison in the spines - so we needed to be careful where we put our feet. One of the highlights here was seeing the little nemo fish and how territorial they were.  One even attacked Adrian as he got too close to their home.

Completely soaked through now - and sick of anything water based, we went home; catching a taxi to get up the enormous hill. I know there are the local buses, but as yet, have not been able to get the attention of one.  ( they are local people in vans who drive around. You have to wave at them and they will stop.  You tap on the door when you want to be let out and then give them what you think is fair as a fare.)

We were satisfied with a cuppa and some gorgeous pineapple for dinner.  Later on we walked down to our Jetty and sat in the semi darkness on the water, taking in the stars and inky darkness of the water.  We were treated by a myriad of fireworks as locals along the bay let off thier contributions to celebrate Christmas.  The loud banging and noise continued throughout the night - but we all turned in fairly early - exhausted from the day (and the big meal!)

Day 3 in Vanuatu

I feel blessed that I don’t really need to sleep - or at least I can function well enough with very little sleep.  Poor Lilly was up at least ten times throwing up during the night. Its bad enough to expel bad food, but to continually dry retch till that yuck yellow bile dribbles out - yuck… poor little thing. She was really good about it all, no mess. I spent alot of time with a cold washer on the back of her neck as she lent over the loo ( and wondering if this was a scene to come in about 10 years time) and washing her down in the shower.

We blamed the raspberries and it was a good lesson in complacency for us. 

Our outcome for this trip was to introduce a little independent  travel to the kids and see how we cope as a family unit. Vanuatu has alot of third world aspects about it and to be honest is pretty primitive in most places - but on the other hand, is a safe place to be.  Completely delightful people and environment to be in.

We have to become vigilant with our eating habits and where and what we do with out hands.  I didn’t wash the raspberries when we got home - but we walked through and touched alot of pretty dirty stuff in the markets and in town; so it could have been anything.

Adrian was exhausted and announced he was not getting out of bed all day. Lilly was very seedy so stayed in bed and watched the same movie over and over.  Morgan was happy enough to draw and colour in using the pack of stuff I’d brought along.

I walked into town again, not expecting much to be open, but curious what it might be like - the day before Xmas. 

I had missed in my research the fact the Chinese had settled here, so was surprised to see alot of what I would term the junk stores ( the dime store type deals) open.  There was even a corner store ( run by a Chinese lass) open. 

You’ve not been shopping until you’ve been shopping in thirty five degrees with heaving masses of humanity all clambering to finish their Christmas shopping before everything closes at 2 pm. I just put my writers hat on and wandered through the squirming masses of brown limbs, bodies pressed up against each other and all grabbing at items on shelves or tables. There as no malice or panic and if you can imagine it - it was all done in a sense of calm.  The heat inside some of the shops was near unbearable, the prickling sweat literally running down my back.  As much as I was enjoying the whole feel of it - I was physically starting to feel sick with the unwashed body smells and the oppressive heat. I ended up buying a few little things for Christmas gifts for the others and escaped.

Sadly Jills was closed, I could have really gone one of their coffees and tacos.  I wandered along the park till I got to the Rasta Van - an institution here apparently - where they sell everything good to eat…by the end, I felt like the man in the cheese shop scene in Monty Python.  Everything I asked for ( on the menu), the lass nodded, ducked down or turned around to look for and then shook her head telling me that they didn’t have it or had just run out.  I ended up asking what she did have. She turned looked about the van and said with that serene look.. oh we have icecreams… but you guessed it.. only vanilla...I went to the beach cafe and watched the rest of the rabble saunter around clutching their purchases whilst ducking out of the rain.

It rained most of the day - but after getting satched once, it didn’t matter.  It cooled things down considerably - so was a real blessing when it did tip down.

I walked home and did very little for the rest of the day, other than read my trashy books whilst hanging out on the hammock.  Lilly had gained some colour and they spent the rest of the time in the pool.

But you know us... We had to do something.. just all this relaxing ... and doing nothing.....well

Age got Lilly into one of the kayaks and took her for an explore up the bay.  Morgan hopped into one and assured me he could do the same all by himself - so I forced him to wear a lifejacket and let him go. He did so well and had a ball.

I got in one of the last left and took off after them.  I'm not particularly experienced - but even I knew something was wrong when I got lower and lower in the water..  I barely made it back to our beach before the whole thing went under.  It had huge holes in the hull. I had not noticed in my hurry to join the rest of them.

so - sadly - our mode of transport to town will only be by foot.. never mind - the water makes me a bit nervous anyway...

Those Raspberries

a photo of the offending Raspberries....oh - and the best Banana ever...

our dinner that night!

Day 2 in Vanuatu

We awoke mid morning, amazed at how quiet everything was and how dark our unit was. The wooden shutters cut every bit of light out and as we discovered, We were only 1 unit or apartment of 10. I loved the emphasis put on some things in our place.  The owners were French, and as such good quality ground coffee was an essential addition to our kitchen.  Soap, however, was not.

The kids bedroom was enormous and sported a  large TV and DVD player - which proved to be a real asset over the next few days.  Our kitchen was on the landing. We sat on the side of a hill overlooking the bay. Directly below us was a small swimming pool and a jetty stretching out into the water. The private beach was small, but secluded and the hammock was never busy.. Bliss.

We gathered our wits and walked into the town centre. It was all down hill -  about twenty mins. We had plans to take canoes next time - but I’ll let you know how that venture went when we get there!

Very glad we came the extra day before - as Christmas Eve was a public holiday and shops and Markets were not open now for another 5 days. We mooched round Port looking at fresh food markets and delighting in different sounds and smells. 

As it was close to lunch we decided to check out one of the recommended cafes from the Lonely Planet. Jills Cafe was a bubble of peace in the madness of tourists and daily bustle of locals. It was an interesting mix of an American/mexican diner infused with the local islander flavours. Very cool, comfy and attentive service ( a big thing in Vanuatu.. believe me). We found that it had excellent prices for its food. Salad plate was 450 v ($4.50) and substantial enough for lunch. We all agreed it had the best icecream ever - especailly as two scoops was 200 v.  I opted for a brilliant home made flour torteas made into chips for a bean nachos yum. 

After lunch,  Lilly and I  headed over to the clothes market on the port and got our hair braided. It might be a bit touristy - but I did it so we didn't need to worry about washing and styling stringy hot hair for the humidity and heat and for the numerous times we climbed in and out of salt water. 3500 v for both of us. Not super cheap but I think worth it for saving of hassle. 

Morgan was not well and was very lethargic with a fever and sore tummy. He hadn’t been particularly well the day before - so I suspected he was coming down with a cold, rather than food poisoning or some tropical thing. The kids were awesome yesterday with all travel probs and we did arrive close to 2 am in the morning. So they can be excused for grumpiness  and tiredness to day.

We went back to the Markets and bought a bunch of fruit and salad veges.  I couldn't get over the strings of crabs they had for sale.  not that they were being sold - but wondering how on earth they strung them so close to each other - still alive.  I took plenty of photos of the market place.

We conceded that we needed to get a taxi ‘home’ and then spent time in pool and on the small beach. 

 Age took one of the kayaks out and saw lots of fish and coral on his travels. I lay in the hammock and read a trashy book. I am so exhausted I just cant be arsed to look at tours or plan anything apart from a cocktail hammock and book.

Although I thought I might feel differently the next day, both Age and I were completely burnt out and desperately just needed to sleep and do great mounds of nothing.

It is a very different holiday start than what I am normally like.  I’d done some resreach, but nothing to the extent of arranging tours or planning how to see all the sights by bus and public transport.  I just felt uninspired and hollow.

Dinner was awesome - the best bananas we’d ever eaten - ever. on  whim I bought a large tray of a sort of tropical  raspberry - which Lilly scoffed most of,  I have grown to like the red pawpaw and of course we had a huge string of coconuts - so had fresh coconut to munch on. Age made fantastic green smoothie from fresh lettuce from market( got a dozen baby ones on a string) pineapple and banana. 

Over dinner, Lilly announced she wants to move here.

Morgan and Age went down at the jetty after dinner and fished by torchlight. Apparently, the best bait is pawpaw. They got a few nibbles but nothing big enough to haul in.

Incredibly, I was in bed and asleep by 10. Unheard of.