Thursday, 29 May 2014

The Essence of Life.. Is to be Present


Anout Seven kms from the last town, on a dusty, stony path that never seems to have an end, is a ramshackle stall which will profoundly challange, delight and bring some pilgrims to tears.

The hermit/ philosopher and his friend dont exchange names. They warmly welcome pilgrims as they struggle up the hill encouraging them to take eat and drink what they need and to sit for a while out of the wind.

In my bad spanish, I translate the message on thier stall as the essence of life is to be present.  So so true. 

The Stall is abundant with fresh juices, gorgeous fruit, teas, coffee, cherries, olvies, nuts breads, rice cakes and spreads. There is an unobtrusive box with no sign, but people pop in a donation and give the pair a rateful smile as they pass.

  







We sat in the warmth for about half an hour. We discovered that this had been here for fifteen years and that they live here. No running water or electricity and no roof or rooms. They sleep in a lean to warmed by a can style heater fueled by collected wood. They left lives to be of service to those on pilgrimage. Incredible. Its at these points, when the body is exhasted that true enlightenment and clarity can be obtained . I'm not a believer in saying we must suffer to get messages of devine truth, but it woukd seem thatthe  human spirit will refuse it, unless they are suffering. 

It was a true blessing and a reminder to me to accept and be present to those near me. 

She shared a few stories which made me smile, once again strengthening my belief that so many of us don't only carry our backpacks snd are weighed down by more than our clothes. The words in the Wild Chapel come back to me. "If you are tired of bearing your cross... Leave it here". 

This pilgrimage is not about the miles or how fast or far you go. Its done in your heart. 





To Astorga

What had threatened to be a miserable rain filled day, turned out to be a beautiful clear day; albeit windy and chilly. The head wind made our trek difficukt, but what made it worse was the 10 km of loose stones and goat tracks. My ankles, which had just about recovered, are now in a weakened state; and I'm glad to be in bed at the moment.


We meet so many interesting folk along the way, something which reminds me that language is only a tiny bit of communication. Smiles, guestures alot of charades ... And a cute dog doesn't hurt in getting a message across. 



This is the cross to theentrance into Astorga, a maddening. 5 km still into the city. So close..you'll see stones piled up on markers and monuments; these are representing sins, sorrows and anger which pilgrims have decided that they no longer need to carry and have cast aside. Quite a powerful metaphore. 


Astorga Catheral is another Hothic jewel in the collection of stunning Cathedrals of Europe. Once again, begin in the 12 th century, it was completed in the 16th and best noted for its intricate carvings on the outside , and invaluable paintings inside..

 
Below is a photo of the Astorga Palace, beside the Cathedral. It was designed by Gaudi, and I was surprised to find its the inly Gaudi building outside Catalan. 




This is the pilgrim statue outside our Albergue. The Albergue is huge, once a hospital and for its size, still retains a warm feeling of hospitality.