The Volcano

We readied ourselves for the Volvano trip, bringing head torches and jackets as it gets cold up there. The ride was bumpy and steep as we drove around wash out and through creek beds. This time I rode in the back of the truck with its tiny narrow wooden seats for 18 km of twisty cut in through the muddly trails.  Morgan and Lilly were given some mangos to eat and were shown how the locals consumed them - skin and all.  I was told they were the most delicious and sweetest mangoes they had ever had.. certainly the juiciest and messiest.

The closer we got to volcano, the more apparent the steam and smoke became as it burped out. I wasn’t prepared for the ash plains below though. It was an incredible desert of black ash. We stopped for a while to look up at the volcano as it periodically puffed out its black clouds. The ash constantly feathered down on our faces. Apparently there is a local group who take tourists half way up this side of the volcano with pieces of board - so you can sand board down.  Looked like a steep old trek for a few mins of fun.

Our truck took us around the base of the volcano to the other side and then we began our ascent. It was a bit unsettling to see puffs of smoke rise from the track as we passed and tiny outlets of steam on the side of the road. ( I am using the term road very loosely here)

We arrived at a desolate rocky plateau. I am now sorry not to have taken photos of the toilets there. We were all so excited at getting to the top of the mountain, I forgot it was going to be night time by the time we made our way down.  Basically they were tiny huts built over pits. Thin logs stretched over the hole and rudimentary box with hole in top to sit on. Very scary in the dark I can tell you.. I think I am obsessed with toilets…

Anyway , our guide - beguiled by Miss Lilly, put her on top of his shoulders and carried her to the top, whilst wearing thongs.  Note that the surface was loose ash and rocks and very steep. On the way up, cold, stinging rain pelted down on us.  There wasn’t a patch on us that was dry - not undies.. nothing. 

When we got to the edge and looked over, it was incredible. There was too much noxious smoke to see the pit of bubbling lava - but we only had to wait a few moments before it was shot up in the air in an explosion. Huge sprays of lava and enormous rocks were shot into the air every minute or so. Looking down we could see when the next big explosion was to happen as there was a disturbance in the air, the ground rumbled and then …. BOOM.

We stayed till it was very dark, marvelling at the fireworks display against the night sky.  Coming down wasn’t so hard - especially with our very funky and highly unfashionable head torches.  Despite the bumpy ride back both kids put their heads down and fell asleep.  We were filthy and covered in ash, smelling like a bitumen truck when we got home - but the care factor when we got to our beds rated very lowly.

Day 9 Tanna

We had an early morning flight to Tanna Island and had fully packed the night before.  I’d arranged with reception to get a taxi transfer for 6 am. She really ripped it into the guy over the phone to ensure our booking was not forgotten.

It was therefore a bit of a rude shock to be woken by a bang on the door at quarter to five telling us our taxi was outside and waiting for us. At first I thought we’d all slept in and my heart just pounded. Thankfully the kids were all set and automatically got into their clothes and grabbed their bags to sit in the taxi while we did a final sweep of the rooms.

The airport was only a few mins drive away and of course we got there in bucket loads of time. Locals with their cardboard boxes taped up and coconut frond matting all rolled up lined up in front of the check in desk. It was oppressively hot already at was not even 6.30 am. The trip over was quick and uneventful. Tanna was alot bigger than I had imagined. the airport was a few rooms, but maintained a customs desk as it was an International airport ( flights from New Caledonia were now coming in every week!)  The baggage handling was a laugh. We all waited in an open room where a low desk area thrust out to the tarmac. The baggage guys threw the bags up on the desk and people grabbed them as they landed.   Morgan was a super boy and stood, searching all the bags darting in and out to get ours.

Our transfer was a ute - where the kids sat in the back with one of the Island boys. I tried to get in the back with them - but they wouldn't let me.. I am a bit glad as the sparkle would have well and rely dimmed after an hour and half of kidney shaking, muddy slippery roads.

We arrived at Friendly Bungalows - part of a traditional village a few kms away from the foot of the volcano - our whole reason for coming to the island.  

The beach was pure black. The sand and rocks reflecting in the waves as black water rolled in endlessly. The beach was pretty steep. I was fascinated with the tiny glittering sparkles as the waves withdrew over it. All volcanic rock and ash built up over thousands of eruptions.

I walked the kids down the beach to the end of the cove. I was very proud of Morgan as he went straight into the surf and made friends. He body surfed with locals kids for a bout half an hour until my nerve gave out. I am not a strong swimmer and am very nervous in the waves. It gutted me to have to call him to come in - but I was getting frightened at how far out and deep he was getting as the local kids got braver and braver.

We settled into our hut, delighting in its rustic nature and the view over the beach. Our beds were built up on bamboo and the shower and toilet had no flooring - other than a thick layer of broken coral. No plumbing to take the waste water away - what feel from the sink and the shower went straight on the floor and soaked up underneath.  Again - not going to think too deeply about the loo - it was a slow drain away type thing where the water going to it was equally slow in filling.

One of the local lads climbed the Coconut Palm besides us as quick as winking. he retrieved a coconut each and when he got down, cut them open for us to drink out of.

I'll do a separate post for our trip to the volcano.