Onto El Acebo

Snow capped mountains are a constant reminder to us that we are steadily climbing upward and will soon farewell anything that was flat.

So many beautiful vistas, but once through the lense, lose all magnificence. 

We had planned on staying at Manjarin, but it was already filled when we arrived. Its a completely mad place. Once abandoned, it has the official population of one - a passionate Templar. So many of the mountain villages have been left to rot and slide back into nature. This place is not far from nature, no showers, below is the communal table for a shared meal and the place called a toilet is across the road.. In a field. The Templar is strict about who stays and of substances brought here - nothing stronger than weak coffee, and from the notices, I believe there is prayer time twice a day as well. The one thing I did like, was the 'no getting out if bed before 8 am rule' niiiice.

The long mountain views into El Acebo.

Gorgeous mountain village main street in El Acebo.

Score!! Our Albergue on the edge of town has just been built. It was still a building site when Morgan and Age came through last year.

So beautiful! This is the view from our room. Pretty good for seven euros a bed.

Rabanal Del Camino

Out of Astorga and up into the mountains today. Astorga suburbs weren't as extensive as I 'd imagined them to be, though the little villages we walked intoalong  the way seemed to go on and on. There was alot of roadway walking to start with, and we were glad to get to El Gozo and onto some mountain paths. 

It had threatened to be wet and cold today, and didn't disappoint. 

Some typical mountain homes and streetscapes below. And yes.. The peeps don't take thier onsies off much. 

The cross on the way out of El Gozo

Mountain paths can be fairly rocky and dangerous due to the slatey slippery nature of the stones. We've had a few accidents when the kids were tired and simply not taking enough care to lift feet, but touch wood.. Nothing out of the ordinary. 

I'm wet and cold..

But wonder of wonders!!

I have about a million photos of the events below.. Just so excited.. I love the randomness of the Camino.

Just some random guy working in a field as we entered town.  The bird was on a post - obviously his pet.. I took a photo of it and he came up to us and in gestures offered for Morgan to hold it.. And then Lilly and me.. So excited!! 

How often do you get the chance to touch a hawk - or for that matter handle it? Such a special moment for all of us.. I love the genuine smile from Morgan.

Up the mountain to the Iron Cross

Gorgeous day to be alive!! What perfect weather to walk in as well.

We all started off rugged up, but the further up the mountain we got, the hotter it got.

I love the early morning golden light on buildings.

Foncebadon is one of the mountain towns which was abandoned for years, but ou now gaining some regular residents. It has three Albergues!!! And shockingly - a well stocked store. It was a welcome stop for breakfast and breather before the iron cross..

The Iron Cross stood magnificently against the blue sky.

Though ot has a revered feing, I couldnt help but feel a little ripped off and disappointed. I'd thought it might have been.. Bigger??

The mound of stones, bearing names, wishes spells and blessings - cast there over years - it leaves an eerie, sad energy, not incomfortable.. But one of waiting, of slight desperation, of lingering hope. 

I set a stone for Age... And put a message of love for him on the rock wall. 

I have been carrying these stones, in heart shapes the whole way. One is whole, the other two shattered and broken.. This circle of pain has been broken today as I cast the last two into the pile. 

Me on the top of the rock pile at the Iron Cross. Pensive snd thoughtful after some barefoot meditation in the pine forest.

The path ahead.. Onto Santiago..222 km to go.

Just another molehill..not letting anything stop me. Ok?

Sorry folks.. My daily blog is a day behind. My lower back had been aching for a few km before we got into Rabanal Del Camino but as soon as I took my pack off and lay down, I was in searing pain and had to get the kids to help get my boots off. 

I was very grateful that there was a massuer in the town, but partly my misunderstanding of directions and times, partly pure pain saw me having to wander up and down the rainy streets in search of it.

I have to say.... The search was totally worth it. I hate to sound flakey and shallow as truely, I would have been as thankful if  an ugly wrinkled old woman had given me that massage.... It certainly made getting naked in a freezing stone clad hall a heap more pleasant to have an extremly hot young Spanish man be willing to lay his soft hands on me for an hour. Huge sigh. Hot stones to loosen up the knotted muscles and warmed aromatherapy oils kneeded gently, then more firmly into my poor aching back. Oh boy he didnt miss a single point of pain -all absolutly needed... And I'm sure I need a series of massages to loosen more.

And no, i'm not delusional enough to think that the poor man coukd see anything other than another body to work on ( feel so sorry for masseurs really.. There are very few 'good' bodies out there..well.. I can think of some.. But I digress ) 

Unfortunately, almost the moment I left the building, the pain was back. Not much I could do but have a hot shower, plenty of ibufren and find a pisition in bed that didnt make me scream. 

Was proud of the kids, they took themselves off to a close bar and got dinner for themselves, bless them, they even brought me back a few mouthfuls.. 

A nights sleep seemed to help, but I'm still in pain; so the next stage will probably be pretty slow.

Whinge over.. Onward huh?