Onto El Acebo

Snow capped mountains are a constant reminder to us that we are steadily climbing upward and will soon farewell anything that was flat.

So many beautiful vistas, but once through the lense, lose all magnificence. 

We had planned on staying at Manjarin, but it was already filled when we arrived. Its a completely mad place. Once abandoned, it has the official population of one - a passionate Templar. So many of the mountain villages have been left to rot and slide back into nature. This place is not far from nature, no showers, below is the communal table for a shared meal and the place called a toilet is across the road.. In a field. The Templar is strict about who stays and of substances brought here - nothing stronger than weak coffee, and from the notices, I believe there is prayer time twice a day as well. The one thing I did like, was the 'no getting out if bed before 8 am rule' niiiice.

The long mountain views into El Acebo.

Gorgeous mountain village main street in El Acebo.

Score!! Our Albergue on the edge of town has just been built. It was still a building site when Morgan and Age came through last year.

So beautiful! This is the view from our room. Pretty good for seven euros a bed.

Rabanal Del Camino

Out of Astorga and up into the mountains today. Astorga suburbs weren't as extensive as I 'd imagined them to be, though the little villages we walked intoalong  the way seemed to go on and on. There was alot of roadway walking to start with, and we were glad to get to El Gozo and onto some mountain paths. 

It had threatened to be wet and cold today, and didn't disappoint. 

Some typical mountain homes and streetscapes below. And yes.. The peeps don't take thier onsies off much. 

The cross on the way out of El Gozo

Mountain paths can be fairly rocky and dangerous due to the slatey slippery nature of the stones. We've had a few accidents when the kids were tired and simply not taking enough care to lift feet, but touch wood.. Nothing out of the ordinary. 

I'm wet and cold..

But wonder of wonders!!

I have about a million photos of the events below.. Just so excited.. I love the randomness of the Camino.

Just some random guy working in a field as we entered town.  The bird was on a post - obviously his pet.. I took a photo of it and he came up to us and in gestures offered for Morgan to hold it.. And then Lilly and me.. So excited!! 

How often do you get the chance to touch a hawk - or for that matter handle it? Such a special moment for all of us.. I love the genuine smile from Morgan.

Up the mountain to the Iron Cross

Gorgeous day to be alive!! What perfect weather to walk in as well.

We all started off rugged up, but the further up the mountain we got, the hotter it got.

I love the early morning golden light on buildings.

Foncebadon is one of the mountain towns which was abandoned for years, but ou now gaining some regular residents. It has three Albergues!!! And shockingly - a well stocked store. It was a welcome stop for breakfast and breather before the iron cross..

The Iron Cross stood magnificently against the blue sky.

Though ot has a revered feing, I couldnt help but feel a little ripped off and disappointed. I'd thought it might have been.. Bigger??

The mound of stones, bearing names, wishes spells and blessings - cast there over years - it leaves an eerie, sad energy, not incomfortable.. But one of waiting, of slight desperation, of lingering hope. 

I set a stone for Age... And put a message of love for him on the rock wall. 

I have been carrying these stones, in heart shapes the whole way. One is whole, the other two shattered and broken.. This circle of pain has been broken today as I cast the last two into the pile. 

Me on the top of the rock pile at the Iron Cross. Pensive snd thoughtful after some barefoot meditation in the pine forest.

The path ahead.. Onto Santiago..222 km to go.

Just another molehill..not letting anything stop me. Ok?

Sorry folks.. My daily blog is a day behind. My lower back had been aching for a few km before we got into Rabanal Del Camino but as soon as I took my pack off and lay down, I was in searing pain and had to get the kids to help get my boots off. 

I was very grateful that there was a massuer in the town, but partly my misunderstanding of directions and times, partly pure pain saw me having to wander up and down the rainy streets in search of it.

I have to say.... The search was totally worth it. I hate to sound flakey and shallow as truely, I would have been as thankful if  an ugly wrinkled old woman had given me that massage.... It certainly made getting naked in a freezing stone clad hall a heap more pleasant to have an extremly hot young Spanish man be willing to lay his soft hands on me for an hour. Huge sigh. Hot stones to loosen up the knotted muscles and warmed aromatherapy oils kneeded gently, then more firmly into my poor aching back. Oh boy he didnt miss a single point of pain -all absolutly needed... And I'm sure I need a series of massages to loosen more.

And no, i'm not delusional enough to think that the poor man coukd see anything other than another body to work on ( feel so sorry for masseurs really.. There are very few 'good' bodies out there..well.. I can think of some.. But I digress ) 

Unfortunately, almost the moment I left the building, the pain was back. Not much I could do but have a hot shower, plenty of ibufren and find a pisition in bed that didnt make me scream. 

Was proud of the kids, they took themselves off to a close bar and got dinner for themselves, bless them, they even brought me back a few mouthfuls.. 

A nights sleep seemed to help, but I'm still in pain; so the next stage will probably be pretty slow.

Whinge over.. Onward huh? 

The Essence of Life.. Is to be Present

Anout Seven kms from the last town, on a dusty, stony path that never seems to have an end, is a ramshackle stall which will profoundly challange, delight and bring some pilgrims to tears.

The hermit/ philosopher and his friend dont exchange names. They warmly welcome pilgrims as they struggle up the hill encouraging them to take eat and drink what they need and to sit for a while out of the wind.

In my bad spanish, I translate the message on thier stall as the essence of life is to be present.  So so true. 

The Stall is abundant with fresh juices, gorgeous fruit, teas, coffee, cherries, olvies, nuts breads, rice cakes and spreads. There is an unobtrusive box with no sign, but people pop in a donation and give the pair a rateful smile as they pass.

  

We sat in the warmth for about half an hour. We discovered that this had been here for fifteen years and that they live here. No running water or electricity and no roof or rooms. They sleep in a lean to warmed by a can style heater fueled by collected wood. They left lives to be of service to those on pilgrimage. Incredible. Its at these points, when the body is exhasted that true enlightenment and clarity can be obtained . I'm not a believer in saying we must suffer to get messages of devine truth, but it woukd seem thatthe  human spirit will refuse it, unless they are suffering. 

It was a true blessing and a reminder to me to accept and be present to those near me. 

She shared a few stories which made me smile, once again strengthening my belief that so many of us don't only carry our backpacks snd are weighed down by more than our clothes. The words in the Wild Chapel come back to me. "If you are tired of bearing your cross... Leave it here". 

This pilgrimage is not about the miles or how fast or far you go. Its done in your heart. 

To Astorga

What had threatened to be a miserable rain filled day, turned out to be a beautiful clear day; albeit windy and chilly. The head wind made our trek difficukt, but what made it worse was the 10 km of loose stones and goat tracks. My ankles, which had just about recovered, are now in a weakened state; and I'm glad to be in bed at the moment.

We meet so many interesting folk along the way, something which reminds me that language is only a tiny bit of communication. Smiles, guestures alot of charades ... And a cute dog doesn't hurt in getting a message across. 

This is the cross to theentrance into Astorga, a maddening. 5 km still into the city. So close..you'll see stones piled up on markers and monuments; these are representing sins, sorrows and anger which pilgrims have decided that they no longer need to carry and have cast aside. Quite a powerful metaphore. 

Astorga Catheral is another Hothic jewel in the collection of stunning Cathedrals of Europe. Once again, begin in the 12 th century, it was completed in the 16th and best noted for its intricate carvings on the outside , and invaluable paintings inside..

 

Below is a photo of the Astorga Palace, beside the Cathedral. It was designed by Gaudi, and I was surprised to find its the inly Gaudi building outside Catalan. 

This is the pilgrim statue outside our Albergue. The Albergue is huge, once a hospital and for its size, still retains a warm feeling of hospitality. 

Onto to Villares de Orbigo

A truely delightful day to walk. Though a wee chilly at 6 degrees this morning, it reached around 16 by the time we stopped and not a cloud to be seen. 

We stopped for lunch st a brilliant little bar in Hospital de Orbigo. Soft music tumbled out into the street, pulling us into a tranquil garden and patio.  The owner must spend alot of time tending the grass as it was fluffy soft, lush and springy- too good not to take your shoes off and frolic ( did I just say frolic??)

You can see the tan mark from my walking boots.. White white tootsies!! Far too long in the UK me thinks.

We saw Roy the bear in Leon and I was thrilled to see Mark carrying him past today. Briefly, Mark and a friend are carrying this giant bear - bought by Roy the mad English guy we keep meeting up with ; to raise money and awareness to stop child prostitution in Cambodia 

I'm not sure of her name, but an Aussie lass raising money and adter telling Mark about whst she was doing , he  was so enthused, he got involved as well. Roy overheard all of this and went and bought the biggest bear he could find ( HUGE) .. And well - here he is raising money. Such great stories of people wanting to make a difference. 

More info here ( or follow Roy El Oso on Facebook) 

https://give.everydayhero.com/au/el-camino

Such a pucture perfect scene as we crissed the river in Hospital de Orbigo.

Now, there is a bit of a story - as there ways is- with this bridge and Jousting field. 

It seems in the 15th century a knight fell in love with a lady of stature - but she didnt return his affections. He setbout to win her love by challenging all of Europe to a joustinv match. The story goes that it took a month and 300 matches - and he was still the champion - and the lady in question still rebutted his affections.

He apparently hot a collar of jewels pit around his neck. ( as you do) and became a pilgrim, walking to Santiago and now doubt sobbing his poor broken heart out. The collar is in the Cathedral - so some of the story must be true.

In anycase, every year, there is a huge medieval jousting competition and fayre here. Must be awesome to see.

Below, the kids walking through the streets.

Albergue Villares de Orbigo.. Possibly the best place on the Camino

We had originally meant to pass through this village and stay in the next village. However, Lillys ankle was hurting, so we pulled up and went through some very unassuming  doors to find this little courtyard.

We were greeted by the owners as long lost relatives and with such genuine warmth and love, I could not help but feel at home.

The owners have opened thier home to accomodate pilgrims in a variety of rooms. It honestly is the cleanest, most comfortable Albergue we have been in so far.. And the wifi is super fast!! ( a huge plus) with hot showers, squeeky clean bathrooms and comfy beds, I truely hope they are busier during the year than they were the night we spent. 

This is one of the bunk rooms they have. There are other rooms accomodating couples and quads. 

The courtyard was a delightful spot to chill, but this couch overlooking it was just as comfortable and peaceful. 

For a donation, they cooked a communal dinner and provided a breakfast as well... Mmmm home made lemon travellers cake, thick toast and jams.. I could have stayed here a week..