Day 3 in Vanuatu

I feel blessed that I don’t really need to sleep - or at least I can function well enough with very little sleep.  Poor Lilly was up at least ten times throwing up during the night. Its bad enough to expel bad food, but to continually dry retch till that yuck yellow bile dribbles out - yuck… poor little thing. She was really good about it all, no mess. I spent alot of time with a cold washer on the back of her neck as she lent over the loo ( and wondering if this was a scene to come in about 10 years time) and washing her down in the shower.

We blamed the raspberries and it was a good lesson in complacency for us. 

Our outcome for this trip was to introduce a little independent  travel to the kids and see how we cope as a family unit. Vanuatu has alot of third world aspects about it and to be honest is pretty primitive in most places - but on the other hand, is a safe place to be.  Completely delightful people and environment to be in.

We have to become vigilant with our eating habits and where and what we do with out hands.  I didn’t wash the raspberries when we got home - but we walked through and touched alot of pretty dirty stuff in the markets and in town; so it could have been anything.

Adrian was exhausted and announced he was not getting out of bed all day. Lilly was very seedy so stayed in bed and watched the same movie over and over.  Morgan was happy enough to draw and colour in using the pack of stuff I’d brought along.

I walked into town again, not expecting much to be open, but curious what it might be like - the day before Xmas. 

I had missed in my research the fact the Chinese had settled here, so was surprised to see alot of what I would term the junk stores ( the dime store type deals) open.  There was even a corner store ( run by a Chinese lass) open. 

You’ve not been shopping until you’ve been shopping in thirty five degrees with heaving masses of humanity all clambering to finish their Christmas shopping before everything closes at 2 pm. I just put my writers hat on and wandered through the squirming masses of brown limbs, bodies pressed up against each other and all grabbing at items on shelves or tables. There as no malice or panic and if you can imagine it - it was all done in a sense of calm.  The heat inside some of the shops was near unbearable, the prickling sweat literally running down my back.  As much as I was enjoying the whole feel of it - I was physically starting to feel sick with the unwashed body smells and the oppressive heat. I ended up buying a few little things for Christmas gifts for the others and escaped.

Sadly Jills was closed, I could have really gone one of their coffees and tacos.  I wandered along the park till I got to the Rasta Van - an institution here apparently - where they sell everything good to eat…by the end, I felt like the man in the cheese shop scene in Monty Python.  Everything I asked for ( on the menu), the lass nodded, ducked down or turned around to look for and then shook her head telling me that they didn’t have it or had just run out.  I ended up asking what she did have. She turned looked about the van and said with that serene look.. oh we have icecreams… but you guessed it.. only vanilla...I went to the beach cafe and watched the rest of the rabble saunter around clutching their purchases whilst ducking out of the rain.

It rained most of the day - but after getting satched once, it didn’t matter.  It cooled things down considerably - so was a real blessing when it did tip down.

I walked home and did very little for the rest of the day, other than read my trashy books whilst hanging out on the hammock.  Lilly had gained some colour and they spent the rest of the time in the pool.

But you know us... We had to do something.. just all this relaxing ... and doing nothing.....well

Age got Lilly into one of the kayaks and took her for an explore up the bay.  Morgan hopped into one and assured me he could do the same all by himself - so I forced him to wear a lifejacket and let him go. He did so well and had a ball.

I got in one of the last left and took off after them.  I'm not particularly experienced - but even I knew something was wrong when I got lower and lower in the water..  I barely made it back to our beach before the whole thing went under.  It had huge holes in the hull. I had not noticed in my hurry to join the rest of them.

so - sadly - our mode of transport to town will only be by foot.. never mind - the water makes me a bit nervous anyway...

Those Raspberries

a photo of the offending Raspberries....oh - and the best Banana ever...

our dinner that night!

Day 2 in Vanuatu

We awoke mid morning, amazed at how quiet everything was and how dark our unit was. The wooden shutters cut every bit of light out and as we discovered, We were only 1 unit or apartment of 10. I loved the emphasis put on some things in our place.  The owners were French, and as such good quality ground coffee was an essential addition to our kitchen.  Soap, however, was not.

The kids bedroom was enormous and sported a  large TV and DVD player - which proved to be a real asset over the next few days.  Our kitchen was on the landing. We sat on the side of a hill overlooking the bay. Directly below us was a small swimming pool and a jetty stretching out into the water. The private beach was small, but secluded and the hammock was never busy.. Bliss.

We gathered our wits and walked into the town centre. It was all down hill -  about twenty mins. We had plans to take canoes next time - but I’ll let you know how that venture went when we get there!

Very glad we came the extra day before - as Christmas Eve was a public holiday and shops and Markets were not open now for another 5 days. We mooched round Port looking at fresh food markets and delighting in different sounds and smells. 

As it was close to lunch we decided to check out one of the recommended cafes from the Lonely Planet. Jills Cafe was a bubble of peace in the madness of tourists and daily bustle of locals. It was an interesting mix of an American/mexican diner infused with the local islander flavours. Very cool, comfy and attentive service ( a big thing in Vanuatu.. believe me). We found that it had excellent prices for its food. Salad plate was 450 v ($4.50) and substantial enough for lunch. We all agreed it had the best icecream ever - especailly as two scoops was 200 v.  I opted for a brilliant home made flour torteas made into chips for a bean nachos yum. 

After lunch,  Lilly and I  headed over to the clothes market on the port and got our hair braided. It might be a bit touristy - but I did it so we didn't need to worry about washing and styling stringy hot hair for the humidity and heat and for the numerous times we climbed in and out of salt water. 3500 v for both of us. Not super cheap but I think worth it for saving of hassle. 

Morgan was not well and was very lethargic with a fever and sore tummy. He hadn’t been particularly well the day before - so I suspected he was coming down with a cold, rather than food poisoning or some tropical thing. The kids were awesome yesterday with all travel probs and we did arrive close to 2 am in the morning. So they can be excused for grumpiness  and tiredness to day.

We went back to the Markets and bought a bunch of fruit and salad veges.  I couldn't get over the strings of crabs they had for sale.  not that they were being sold - but wondering how on earth they strung them so close to each other - still alive.  I took plenty of photos of the market place.

We conceded that we needed to get a taxi ‘home’ and then spent time in pool and on the small beach. 

 Age took one of the kayaks out and saw lots of fish and coral on his travels. I lay in the hammock and read a trashy book. I am so exhausted I just cant be arsed to look at tours or plan anything apart from a cocktail hammock and book.

Although I thought I might feel differently the next day, both Age and I were completely burnt out and desperately just needed to sleep and do great mounds of nothing.

It is a very different holiday start than what I am normally like.  I’d done some resreach, but nothing to the extent of arranging tours or planning how to see all the sights by bus and public transport.  I just felt uninspired and hollow.

Dinner was awesome - the best bananas we’d ever eaten - ever. on  whim I bought a large tray of a sort of tropical  raspberry - which Lilly scoffed most of,  I have grown to like the red pawpaw and of course we had a huge string of coconuts - so had fresh coconut to munch on. Age made fantastic green smoothie from fresh lettuce from market( got a dozen baby ones on a string) pineapple and banana. 

Over dinner, Lilly announced she wants to move here.

Morgan and Age went down at the jetty after dinner and fished by torchlight. Apparently, the best bait is pawpaw. They got a few nibbles but nothing big enough to haul in.

Incredibly, I was in bed and asleep by 10. Unheard of.