Saint Jean to Valcarlos - the Back Route

With the snow threatening and the clouds setting in this morning , we decided to go the back route. None less scenic, but it does go along some minor roads and the purists say its not as religious.. Yeah well.. Its your own journey..

Eleven km in the sun is delightful.. 11 in miserable cold rain.. Not so much.

We walked well, stopping to delight in the bugs and beetles, drips of rain and trickling streams.

With plenty of gushing waterfalls along the route, we did get a little wet.

The route was fairly gentle- am not looking goreard to step climb tomorrow.

Morgan was an excellent leader and looked after our hydration and feet. He stopped to put compi on his own toes, threatening to become blisters. 

A little mix up with the alburge we were to stay in, but it saw us meeting the most wonderful lady called Annie ( must be the nsme) and a gorgeous italian couple.

Awesome Alburgue in Valcarlos

We really scored finding this alburgue- and to think we nearly missed it!

Only 30 beds here and such a shame so many pilgrims walk past it trying to get to the Monestary as quickly as they can. So clean, comfotrable and bonus - hot hot shower!! Mmmmmm.. Its the small thigs you realise are luxuries.  

The Italian couple speak good french and a little english. Annie speaks a little of both and we speak almost nothing.. 

However, its funny how little actual language you need to share a wonderful meal and time

Crazy Cat lady Allbergue in SJPDP

Oh far out. I aught to have taken photos and the name to put on my blog.. But a fair warning to anyone starting in Saint Jean.. This place may not suit most pilgrims.

Her place is almost opposite the pilgrims office, so we were surprised to see a sign on her door saying that therecwere still 15 beds available. Sadly, she didnt open her doors till 7.30 pm, othereise we might have seen inside and looked harder for somewherelse.

As it was, we wandered up and down, seeing full signs in most Albergues, and were focused on finding one both in budget (10 euros each)  and with wifi. The horrible place further down the hill at 17 euros probably wasnt as bad as this plsce in retrospect.

With none of the resteraunts opening till 7.30 for dinner, we were sort of stuck in the drizzling rain on the street outside her place, eating a make shift picnic dinner.

After being let into her homestay, we were nearly knocked down by the smell of her. 9 cats and 4 dogs... And rooster which all lived in her lounge room.

Lets just say, after she explained she locked the door till 7 am and the weird arseness of the bathroom set up, if it werent 8 pm, we woukd have walked..

As it was we were too tired to care and were a little thankful of the 7 am curfew - given none of us had been up and out of bed before 8 for a few months..