Misadventures with Michelle

I met a lovely Melbourne lass called Michelle last night. In my defence, I didnt mean to stay out so late!!

Our Albergue was full so the kids and I were put into an overflow hut down the street. What that meant was there was no wifi, so in order for me to chat to Michael, I needed to get the kids into bed and then walk up the street to the courtyard.

With summertime here, its hard to get the kids in bed before 9.30. - one because dinner and the bars arent usually  open till 8 and teo, because the sun doesnt go down  before then. Kids in bed, me in pjs and a light fleece, I set off, barefoot, up the street in order to catch Michael before he needed to go to work.

Just as I sat down, the signal failed, so as I wandered round foing the wifi shuffle ( you know, that lost desperate stare into your screen as you walk around the space) I overhear an Aussie accent talking about her blisters. Always one to help out with advice, I plonked myself down and we just started to chat. 

We both identified with the freedom and power the Camino gifted us in speaking freely; without judgement. The beauty of the Camino is that there really is a level plsying field. We are all walking; got sore feet and legs, have sunburn, are tired and hungry. The only things we really want is a soft bed and a hot shower. Everything is stripped away; all the false pretenses, all the masks. We greet one another as fellow humans, nodding with respect at the journey we know the other has done to get here.

The lights went out on us, but that didn't stop us sharing deeply personal stories and views on life. We would have been there well past midnight and though I know neither of us wanted to leave, it was time to snuggle into bed and not think about getting up early and walking the next day.

I am sure she'd have loved to share a bottle of wine too.. Its the only thing missing from our D and M.  Through our chats, she really clarified a few things, making events which I guess were true and I knew, but needed to to hear again.

After we said goodnight, i left the courtyard, closing the door; which clucked that ominous click of finality.

I walked down the street in my barefeet and PJs, horrified to see the doir of my home closed... And locked. I walked round and tested every window. At that time of night there was no way I could knock and wake anyone.

Lets just say, after considering sleeping in the church ( hard floor and very cold).. I resorted to some break and enter tactics.

Thank goodness it wasnt too high a window, though when I shimmied up onto the ledge snd saw what a drop I had to get to the floor, i sent a little prayer  asking not to break my leg on the jump down.

Our 'shed'

Dry dusty day to Azofra

We really hit our stride today, making great distance till lunchtime. But then the Spanish heat hit us and the afternoon of the last ks dragged on. We'd even contemplated walking an extra 5 km to the next Allbergue earlier on.. But were desperatly hot and tired .. So really needed to stop.  The kids are champions and doing well..

The roads were hard and dusty with very few shady spots to stop. The normal water fountains were scarce and the heat sucked every part of inspiration away from us.

Don't be fooled.. This was the only shade we saw all day. Gorgrous view though.. The camera just doesnt pick it up.

Miles of vinyards stretching out before us.

Artwork on the strange beehive dome thing near Najera.

At last some water and shade!

By the wayside, someone built a shelterand  pimp for cold water from the well for Pilgrims. 

At last.. A cool courtyard in the Azofra.

Logrono to Navarette

Day 12 of our pilgrimage and I think we are all getting our groove on, getting our stride right and falling into a great rhythm. 

We had such a relaxing day yesterday in Logrono; feasting on pinchos in the cathedral square; lazing round our hotel and me getting a massage... Mmmm.. This is what the Camino should be like.. Delighting in the simple things. 

Today wasn't as relaxing, the distance was similar- 12 km but it was a steep climb at the end, always a real drag as it gets hot.

We continue to meet interesting folk along the way and I find I am hungering to hear the aussie accent. I can spot it a mile away. 

Of the delightful things seen along the way..

We went into the church of St James in Logrono to light a candle for Age. Because its St James church, many pilgrims were there to pray for hardened feet and strong legs as they go.

I was so delighted to see red squirrels in the parklands today. Even better, we got to feed them and get really close. I think I have a thousand photos of squirrels from today.

The landscape has opened up into rolling hills, still populated by olive and vinyards. 

We met the Peasant Pilgrim today; a crazy old dude with no teeth but a huge passion for pilgrims. He offers biscuits and fruit to fortify tired pilgrims. He makes walking sticks and has trinkets to sell as well.

This huge steel cut out of a bull looms over the valley where Navarette sits.

So delighted to see we have 576 km to go.. Clocking those miles down.

This is the church of the assumption which sits in a beautiful courtyard in the middle of Navarette.

A beautiful medieval town where the streets are dominated by the stine facades of the buildings, with proud family crests carved in the sandstone.

Sadly no internet at our hostel, so this blog will be late.