Long climb to Atapuerca

Beautiful day for walking, perfect temperature and just the right amount of hills and flats.

It was a welcome relief too , to have regular water fountains and plenty of shade through the pine forests.

I think we walked 18 km.

Trying to wake my two kids is akin to waking the dead, despite a rest day yesterday and early bedtime.

Even so, we managed to leave just after dawn to start our climb up one of the dreaded mountains.

As we climbed, the mist clung to the valley giving the whole atmosphere an eerie, sureal feeling. The morning birds greeted us and it was delightful to hear Lilly identifying many. Her favourite is the cookoo. I love the blackbird.

As we got to the top of the mountain, it got very cold; so the kids got changed into thier onsies.. Best idea yet. They got alot of notice!

A quick break in San Juan where there is major renovations being done on the church.  Incredible really, given the vacancies and dead villages we have passed through.

We reached Atapuercea by 4 this afternoon, just in time to get the last beds in town. On a side note, Atapuerca is famous for its archeological digs. A few years back, the oldest human remains were found - a great excitement as they have been dated from at least 1.2 million years ago. I'd have loved to go to the caves and digs,but its all in Spanish, so not much good for an info deviot like me. 

We have had some awesome Albergues for five euros a bed lately. This has to be the most 'rural' and basic. Its an old cowshed, about 300 years old, converted..no hotwater at all. A real disappointment to find whe you get into the showers. 

Still it was a relief not to have to walk another 6 km to the next town.

Camino Map

Some maps to give you some loints of reference.

Quiet and short day to Villafranca

In direct contrast to yesterdays blazing heat, today was cold, miserable and wet.

Being Sunday, the township of Belorado was comatosed. The cobble stoned streets shone with the rain, beautiful, but dangerous for the pilgrim.

I took few photos, wet, I was still pretty sick and as much as I tried, I couldnt get inspired by the soggy fields.

This is the church or Saint Maria in Belorado. It surprises me that these places arent open - even on a Sunday, for the pilgrims.

We made rest at Villafranca, just before the big hills of tomorrow. Below are some photos from this 11 century village, now cruely cut in half by a busy road that trucks trundle over at all hours of the day.

All along the way are old hospitals and temples of the knights templar. These were places of refuge for the pilgrim. Now many are either hotels or albergues.

We love it when there is a kitchen. As much as we love the pilgrims menu, its nice to be able to cook and prepare simple meals .. Pasta is a favourite.

We got into our Albergue early and I have slept much of the day. I'm only just feeling normal now, so hope that iscthe end of ikky feelings.