On to Iterio Del la Vega

Purposely another short day in the attempt to look after my ankle and achilles heel with just 12 Km done today.

I understand many pilgrims take the bus to Leon to miss this part of the trek - or complain endlessly about the flat few days ahead.

Now, more than ever, I understand the wisdom that the Camino is not done on your feet. It is not up to me to judge another, as everyones journey, experience and Camino is thier own, but it made me smile to see the kids stare incredulously at the well meaning advice to get the bus and announce , why would you start the camino if you werent going to do it? I asked them if they meant   'Finish' but both said that you finish when you are done.. Not in Santiago. Wise chikas no?

Onward ho. The morning hill

Breaky stop at cafe Annie.

Up and down hills today. 

The road ahead. Another 8 km to go till we stop! 

Taking a rest at a traditional pilgrims hospital.

Not far to go now.

The ladies in the bar gambling while the men watch a football match. 

Hospital of the Soul - Castrojeriz

This place is so amazing, it deserves a post by itself.

Just past one of the churches along Calle  Mayor, before the Plaza, tucked behind an unpretentious doorway, languishes the hospital  of the soul. 

Nia Peito and Mau Mariani are artists and pilgrims. Nia is a photographer currently exploring themes around shadows of the human existance, focusing on the many caminos she has walked.

It is thier home not an Albergue a showcase of hospitality and of art. Its an incredible heartfelt demonstration of service to others.

Soft new age music lilts through the maze of tiny rooms as insense curls along beside you. It would almost be cliche, but nothing is pretentious nor put on here.

The rooms are decorated with paintings, photographs and inspirational messages, written in Spanish, English and French.

Comfortable chairs litter the tiny rooms and sunny spots. Magazines snd books, balls of yarn and knitting are scattered about, making this place homey snd welcoming. 

One of the surpising and incredibly spiritual places Ive visited so far was at the bottom of thier garden.  I'm unsure of the origins, as the town has roman ruins and been occupied obviuosly prior to this by many cultures.

Two caverns were available for quiet reflection. One is accessed down tiny stairs under a bricked archway and into a tunnel. The interior candle lit and peaceful. I felt a strong spiritual presence of calmness and am not afraid to say that I wept with an emotional release as I sat in the flickering light.

The other is a more open cavern, wild but still a calm place for reflection.

I loved the carefree openess this house offered; the feeling of hospitality and love.

Its a sense I want to capture and recreate in my next home.

Hontanis to Castrojeriz

I slept pretty badly last night, the pain in my ankle keeping me up, coupled with the snores of thirty others( through earugs) and the ever vigilant ear of a mother - Lilly has been fluey all day and had a persistant cough.

We decided ounly to go 9 km today as the next town with an Albergue was another 10, and I didnt think I'd be able to make that on my ankle and a wingy Lilly.

After breaky, I doubted I was going to make 9 steps. I struggled a few Km before getting my boot off and medical kit.far out. My ankle had blown up and wa Farout.. all puffy. Goes to show how much pain I was in as I didn't get a photo of it.

Patched up though, I was able to walk the rest of the way -slowly.

Around a bend, near to our town, we came across the ruins of San Juan Monestary.- ansolutly breathtaking. It must have been some sight  for themedieval  pilgrims.

Our rocky mountsin path turned into a smooth roadway- much more pleasant for my ankle to cope with.

The sweet view of our next town, overlooked by the ruins of a castle. 

I love seeing the interesting details churches add..several of these were on the outside of the church in  Castrojeriz.

Despite getting in before 1, many places were already full.

We scored a wonderful spot in a 15th century house, run by a real Larikan of a hopitellier.