To Astorga

What had threatened to be a miserable rain filled day, turned out to be a beautiful clear day; albeit windy and chilly. The head wind made our trek difficukt, but what made it worse was the 10 km of loose stones and goat tracks. My ankles, which had just about recovered, are now in a weakened state; and I'm glad to be in bed at the moment.

We meet so many interesting folk along the way, something which reminds me that language is only a tiny bit of communication. Smiles, guestures alot of charades ... And a cute dog doesn't hurt in getting a message across. 

This is the cross to theentrance into Astorga, a maddening. 5 km still into the city. So close..you'll see stones piled up on markers and monuments; these are representing sins, sorrows and anger which pilgrims have decided that they no longer need to carry and have cast aside. Quite a powerful metaphore. 

Astorga Catheral is another Hothic jewel in the collection of stunning Cathedrals of Europe. Once again, begin in the 12 th century, it was completed in the 16th and best noted for its intricate carvings on the outside , and invaluable paintings inside..

 

Below is a photo of the Astorga Palace, beside the Cathedral. It was designed by Gaudi, and I was surprised to find its the inly Gaudi building outside Catalan. 

This is the pilgrim statue outside our Albergue. The Albergue is huge, once a hospital and for its size, still retains a warm feeling of hospitality. 

Onto to Villares de Orbigo

A truely delightful day to walk. Though a wee chilly at 6 degrees this morning, it reached around 16 by the time we stopped and not a cloud to be seen. 

We stopped for lunch st a brilliant little bar in Hospital de Orbigo. Soft music tumbled out into the street, pulling us into a tranquil garden and patio.  The owner must spend alot of time tending the grass as it was fluffy soft, lush and springy- too good not to take your shoes off and frolic ( did I just say frolic??)

You can see the tan mark from my walking boots.. White white tootsies!! Far too long in the UK me thinks.

We saw Roy the bear in Leon and I was thrilled to see Mark carrying him past today. Briefly, Mark and a friend are carrying this giant bear - bought by Roy the mad English guy we keep meeting up with ; to raise money and awareness to stop child prostitution in Cambodia 

I'm not sure of her name, but an Aussie lass raising money and adter telling Mark about whst she was doing , he  was so enthused, he got involved as well. Roy overheard all of this and went and bought the biggest bear he could find ( HUGE) .. And well - here he is raising money. Such great stories of people wanting to make a difference. 

More info here ( or follow Roy El Oso on Facebook) 

https://give.everydayhero.com/au/el-camino

Such a pucture perfect scene as we crissed the river in Hospital de Orbigo.

Now, there is a bit of a story - as there ways is- with this bridge and Jousting field. 

It seems in the 15th century a knight fell in love with a lady of stature - but she didnt return his affections. He setbout to win her love by challenging all of Europe to a joustinv match. The story goes that it took a month and 300 matches - and he was still the champion - and the lady in question still rebutted his affections.

He apparently hot a collar of jewels pit around his neck. ( as you do) and became a pilgrim, walking to Santiago and now doubt sobbing his poor broken heart out. The collar is in the Cathedral - so some of the story must be true.

In anycase, every year, there is a huge medieval jousting competition and fayre here. Must be awesome to see.

Below, the kids walking through the streets.

Albergue Villares de Orbigo.. Possibly the best place on the Camino

We had originally meant to pass through this village and stay in the next village. However, Lillys ankle was hurting, so we pulled up and went through some very unassuming  doors to find this little courtyard.

We were greeted by the owners as long lost relatives and with such genuine warmth and love, I could not help but feel at home.

The owners have opened thier home to accomodate pilgrims in a variety of rooms. It honestly is the cleanest, most comfortable Albergue we have been in so far.. And the wifi is super fast!! ( a huge plus) with hot showers, squeeky clean bathrooms and comfy beds, I truely hope they are busier during the year than they were the night we spent. 

This is one of the bunk rooms they have. There are other rooms accomodating couples and quads. 

The courtyard was a delightful spot to chill, but this couch overlooking it was just as comfortable and peaceful. 

For a donation, they cooked a communal dinner and provided a breakfast as well... Mmmm home made lemon travellers cake, thick toast and jams.. I could have stayed here a week..