The Essence of Life.. Is to be Present

Anout Seven kms from the last town, on a dusty, stony path that never seems to have an end, is a ramshackle stall which will profoundly challange, delight and bring some pilgrims to tears.

The hermit/ philosopher and his friend dont exchange names. They warmly welcome pilgrims as they struggle up the hill encouraging them to take eat and drink what they need and to sit for a while out of the wind.

In my bad spanish, I translate the message on thier stall as the essence of life is to be present.  So so true. 

The Stall is abundant with fresh juices, gorgeous fruit, teas, coffee, cherries, olvies, nuts breads, rice cakes and spreads. There is an unobtrusive box with no sign, but people pop in a donation and give the pair a rateful smile as they pass.

  

We sat in the warmth for about half an hour. We discovered that this had been here for fifteen years and that they live here. No running water or electricity and no roof or rooms. They sleep in a lean to warmed by a can style heater fueled by collected wood. They left lives to be of service to those on pilgrimage. Incredible. Its at these points, when the body is exhasted that true enlightenment and clarity can be obtained . I'm not a believer in saying we must suffer to get messages of devine truth, but it woukd seem thatthe  human spirit will refuse it, unless they are suffering. 

It was a true blessing and a reminder to me to accept and be present to those near me. 

She shared a few stories which made me smile, once again strengthening my belief that so many of us don't only carry our backpacks snd are weighed down by more than our clothes. The words in the Wild Chapel come back to me. "If you are tired of bearing your cross... Leave it here". 

This pilgrimage is not about the miles or how fast or far you go. Its done in your heart. 

To Astorga

What had threatened to be a miserable rain filled day, turned out to be a beautiful clear day; albeit windy and chilly. The head wind made our trek difficukt, but what made it worse was the 10 km of loose stones and goat tracks. My ankles, which had just about recovered, are now in a weakened state; and I'm glad to be in bed at the moment.

We meet so many interesting folk along the way, something which reminds me that language is only a tiny bit of communication. Smiles, guestures alot of charades ... And a cute dog doesn't hurt in getting a message across. 

This is the cross to theentrance into Astorga, a maddening. 5 km still into the city. So close..you'll see stones piled up on markers and monuments; these are representing sins, sorrows and anger which pilgrims have decided that they no longer need to carry and have cast aside. Quite a powerful metaphore. 

Astorga Catheral is another Hothic jewel in the collection of stunning Cathedrals of Europe. Once again, begin in the 12 th century, it was completed in the 16th and best noted for its intricate carvings on the outside , and invaluable paintings inside..

 

Below is a photo of the Astorga Palace, beside the Cathedral. It was designed by Gaudi, and I was surprised to find its the inly Gaudi building outside Catalan. 

This is the pilgrim statue outside our Albergue. The Albergue is huge, once a hospital and for its size, still retains a warm feeling of hospitality. 

Onto to Villares de Orbigo

A truely delightful day to walk. Though a wee chilly at 6 degrees this morning, it reached around 16 by the time we stopped and not a cloud to be seen. 

We stopped for lunch st a brilliant little bar in Hospital de Orbigo. Soft music tumbled out into the street, pulling us into a tranquil garden and patio.  The owner must spend alot of time tending the grass as it was fluffy soft, lush and springy- too good not to take your shoes off and frolic ( did I just say frolic??)

You can see the tan mark from my walking boots.. White white tootsies!! Far too long in the UK me thinks.

We saw Roy the bear in Leon and I was thrilled to see Mark carrying him past today. Briefly, Mark and a friend are carrying this giant bear - bought by Roy the mad English guy we keep meeting up with ; to raise money and awareness to stop child prostitution in Cambodia 

I'm not sure of her name, but an Aussie lass raising money and adter telling Mark about whst she was doing , he  was so enthused, he got involved as well. Roy overheard all of this and went and bought the biggest bear he could find ( HUGE) .. And well - here he is raising money. Such great stories of people wanting to make a difference. 

More info here ( or follow Roy El Oso on Facebook) 

https://give.everydayhero.com/au/el-camino

Such a pucture perfect scene as we crissed the river in Hospital de Orbigo.

Now, there is a bit of a story - as there ways is- with this bridge and Jousting field. 

It seems in the 15th century a knight fell in love with a lady of stature - but she didnt return his affections. He setbout to win her love by challenging all of Europe to a joustinv match. The story goes that it took a month and 300 matches - and he was still the champion - and the lady in question still rebutted his affections.

He apparently hot a collar of jewels pit around his neck. ( as you do) and became a pilgrim, walking to Santiago and now doubt sobbing his poor broken heart out. The collar is in the Cathedral - so some of the story must be true.

In anycase, every year, there is a huge medieval jousting competition and fayre here. Must be awesome to see.

Below, the kids walking through the streets.