Up the mountain to the Iron Cross

Gorgeous day to be alive!! What perfect weather to walk in as well.

We all started off rugged up, but the further up the mountain we got, the hotter it got.

I love the early morning golden light on buildings.

Foncebadon is one of the mountain towns which was abandoned for years, but ou now gaining some regular residents. It has three Albergues!!! And shockingly - a well stocked store. It was a welcome stop for breakfast and breather before the iron cross..

The Iron Cross stood magnificently against the blue sky.

Though ot has a revered feing, I couldnt help but feel a little ripped off and disappointed. I'd thought it might have been.. Bigger??

The mound of stones, bearing names, wishes spells and blessings - cast there over years - it leaves an eerie, sad energy, not incomfortable.. But one of waiting, of slight desperation, of lingering hope. 

I set a stone for Age... And put a message of love for him on the rock wall. 

I have been carrying these stones, in heart shapes the whole way. One is whole, the other two shattered and broken.. This circle of pain has been broken today as I cast the last two into the pile. 

Me on the top of the rock pile at the Iron Cross. Pensive snd thoughtful after some barefoot meditation in the pine forest.

The path ahead.. Onto Santiago..222 km to go.

Just another molehill..not letting anything stop me. Ok?

Sorry folks.. My daily blog is a day behind. My lower back had been aching for a few km before we got into Rabanal Del Camino but as soon as I took my pack off and lay down, I was in searing pain and had to get the kids to help get my boots off. 

I was very grateful that there was a massuer in the town, but partly my misunderstanding of directions and times, partly pure pain saw me having to wander up and down the rainy streets in search of it.

I have to say.... The search was totally worth it. I hate to sound flakey and shallow as truely, I would have been as thankful if  an ugly wrinkled old woman had given me that massage.... It certainly made getting naked in a freezing stone clad hall a heap more pleasant to have an extremly hot young Spanish man be willing to lay his soft hands on me for an hour. Huge sigh. Hot stones to loosen up the knotted muscles and warmed aromatherapy oils kneeded gently, then more firmly into my poor aching back. Oh boy he didnt miss a single point of pain -all absolutly needed... And I'm sure I need a series of massages to loosen more.

And no, i'm not delusional enough to think that the poor man coukd see anything other than another body to work on ( feel so sorry for masseurs really.. There are very few 'good' bodies out there..well.. I can think of some.. But I digress ) 

Unfortunately, almost the moment I left the building, the pain was back. Not much I could do but have a hot shower, plenty of ibufren and find a pisition in bed that didnt make me scream. 

Was proud of the kids, they took themselves off to a close bar and got dinner for themselves, bless them, they even brought me back a few mouthfuls.. 

A nights sleep seemed to help, but I'm still in pain; so the next stage will probably be pretty slow.

Whinge over.. Onward huh? 

The Essence of Life.. Is to be Present

Anout Seven kms from the last town, on a dusty, stony path that never seems to have an end, is a ramshackle stall which will profoundly challange, delight and bring some pilgrims to tears.

The hermit/ philosopher and his friend dont exchange names. They warmly welcome pilgrims as they struggle up the hill encouraging them to take eat and drink what they need and to sit for a while out of the wind.

In my bad spanish, I translate the message on thier stall as the essence of life is to be present.  So so true. 

The Stall is abundant with fresh juices, gorgeous fruit, teas, coffee, cherries, olvies, nuts breads, rice cakes and spreads. There is an unobtrusive box with no sign, but people pop in a donation and give the pair a rateful smile as they pass.

  

We sat in the warmth for about half an hour. We discovered that this had been here for fifteen years and that they live here. No running water or electricity and no roof or rooms. They sleep in a lean to warmed by a can style heater fueled by collected wood. They left lives to be of service to those on pilgrimage. Incredible. Its at these points, when the body is exhasted that true enlightenment and clarity can be obtained . I'm not a believer in saying we must suffer to get messages of devine truth, but it woukd seem thatthe  human spirit will refuse it, unless they are suffering. 

It was a true blessing and a reminder to me to accept and be present to those near me. 

She shared a few stories which made me smile, once again strengthening my belief that so many of us don't only carry our backpacks snd are weighed down by more than our clothes. The words in the Wild Chapel come back to me. "If you are tired of bearing your cross... Leave it here". 

This pilgrimage is not about the miles or how fast or far you go. Its done in your heart.