To Hospital de Cruz ( the town in Galicia)

Another beautiful day on the track, starting out in mist with the sun slowly burning it into oblivion.  

Wet muddy tracks through the forests were a pleasure to tramp in, even up the steep hills. 

Though the markers aren't every KM, its exciting to see the numbers clock down slowly.

We are seeing alot of cast off shoes tshirts and trousers along the paths - blow outs or people who have just said stuff this!

The last 100 km is heavily populated by new walkers. I was prepared, and have to keep any ego in check as we greet or see them. Fancy new shoes, clean sneakers, tiny day packs, clean clothes, brished hair, make up!! All signs of folk who are new. And here we trudge, ragged ( Morgans pants are in tatters - no kidding, I patch them every second day) our boots are held together with tape and glue and hope. I know I look a wreck and am just plain exhasted, regardless of the sleep I get.

A lesson we have learnt this late in the Camino, and sadly not tonight, was that if we are not happy with the Albergue or surrounds, we should move on and find the next place as its sure to be much better.

This is a name and shame. Hospital de Cruz has an Allbergue ( Gov run one)  and a bar with a pension. Both are shit.. With a capital S. No wifi at either. Right beside the busy road - so noisy.

Don't get me wrong, we have had some awesome pilgrims menus along our trip, made with love. Sadly, as I am sure some owners have worked out, the pilgrim is a transient bunch and never likely to return - so it doesnt matter if the food is good or bad.  Some places have tried really hard to be the cheapest, nastiest and serve the most digusting meals, but this place takes pride in the worst food and service on the Camino.

I understand trying to serve alot of people is busy. But seriously. Its high season. You are going to be busy every night.Don't  have one person on the bar and as the waiter. It took 2 hours to be seated and our order taken. No menu, just spoken, which is ok. 

No vegetables or salad in sight. The spagetti was soggy and limp, watery commercial tomato sauce was dumped onto and some very questionable meat pieces - which I suspect said croak - or moo or baa but it was hard to say... Were frugally sprinkled atop. Vomit.

Chicken pieces were next. I have tonsay, I've never seenthose cuts before. Perhaps it was cat or toad. But it was fatty, deep fried to within an inch of its life, the meat dry and unrecognisable.

I won 't even enter a discussion on the desert, which for the kids is a deal breaker. 

So we returned to our hovel Albergue, no shutters to close off car lights, street lights or the still shining sun. No blankets for the freezing night. And all of us teetering on top bunks. Hideous.

But as we ssy. Tomorrow is another day.

To Portomarin

Beautiful tracks wind thier way through fields and forests in Galicia . I think, having now walked the whole trek, Galicia is by far the most beautiful, well signposted and possibly best maintained for its pathways. I do understand that its also the most popular given its proximity to Santiago. A huge amount of Europeans start thier camino from Sarria, so it makes sense to put a good amount of funding into this area.  

After a fabulous sleep in our Albergue ( so comfy and warm I wanted to cry - seriously only those who have been pudhed past thier comfort zones csn fully appreciate this) we set off into the morning chill.

The kids are pretty pleased to see the number continually clock down. Its a real incentive as we walk, especially now we are under 100 km to go.

Most gateways into fields are holding together by wish and name only.

Morgan surveying the track ahead for the day.

Lone donkey standing vigil on the track.

Lots of track through farm yards in Galicia - cemented pathway with grating for cow poo winding its way round the stone buildings.

Casa Susana, one of the donativo cafes along the way. Its owned by an incredibly wonderful  Aussie Lass from Bundaburg. She sets out bakery items, bikkies, coffee, wine, water snd fruit every day for pilgrims. She has this patio set out for thier comfort and rest and is such a beautiful gift back to the Camino community. 

We were so blessed to have met her ( by chance.. By design..) she kindly showed us through her 130 year old home, which she is slowly getting renovated.

Again, someone living thier dream and something the kids and I have constantly been talking about since we started the pilgrimage. 

Her home had been abandoned for many years before she bought it and was in very bad repair. She has managed to do some incredible things in the teo years she has had it. I adore her home! 

The bottom of the house was for the cows and animals and still awaiting renovation. I didnt take any private photos out of respect, but take it from me, its rustic, charming and we all loved it. 

We arrived in Portomarin pretty tired. I think, despite how much sleep we are getting, we are exhasted. Today is day 45 of walking. I know I will be well pleased to finish.

Something I hadnt realised last yime we were here, is that the whole town, including the 12th century church. Was moved, brick by brick up the hill to allow a resoviour  to be built. The church - actually a temple, is a Knights Templar Temple, and sadly was closed when we visited.

92 km to go I think.... Its a wierd mix of being sad it will soon be over and joy.

Wander into Marzan

I hadnt realised what a large city Sarria was. Last time we came here, Lilly and I arrived on a bus and were quickly whisked off into the old part which is along the trail of the Camino.

We stayed last night in the more modern part, a little run down and grimy; and difficult to pick up the trail out of town. ( have I mentioned how much I dislike going in and out of towns?)

We passed the ruins of a castle in Sarria, before heading down the trail. So many memories rushed back - its hard to believe such crystal clear moments can feel like they happened a short time ago - and not a full year.

Depending on where you are, the official milage from Sarria is 115 or 111km to Santiago.

This mile stone is just outside Sarria.

I know I leep going on about it, but Galicia is my favourite province in Spain. Its mysticism, raw energy, deep forests and green beauty just sing to my soul.

We were late getting ip in Sarria, late leaving and I am coming down with a yuck cold, so my whole body feels like I am trudging through concrete. So.. We didnt quite get to the town we planned to... However, found the most charming Albergue which has just opened ip. Its aconverted  millhouse with the owner a wonderful artist.

Gorgeous, clean and spacious - a real gem. Oh.. And it has the cutest guard dog ever called Zoe..