Pilgrim Mass in Santiago Cathedral

The iconic insence burner, sweeping its cleaning smoke across the church and mass in Latin is something, even if you arent Catholic, is something every pilgrim looks forward to seeing at the end of thier walk. 

Even without really knowing what is being said, it holds a powerful and moving presence. The nun who sang last year was still hard at her role today. Her incrediblly strong passionate voice rang clear across the multitudes.

I've taken some shots of the cathedral. Literally hindreds of pilgrims, stuffed tight into every nook and cranny. Whst is amazing, is knowing that it is this full every day, with new pilgrims arriving every day. 

We managed to climb down the stairs to view the tomb of St James and then secure a pozzy out of the main thoroughfare.

I believe that the pilgrims names who had arrived and registered the day prior are read out, but amongst all the other latin, it was difficult to determine if names were being read out or a shopping list!

A brilliant environment and one difficult not to be moved by. 

Easy peasy into O Pedrouzo

We walked an enormous 4 km today and stopped. One because its super hot, and two, it was a good spot to pull up before the last day into Santiago tomorrow.

I enjoyed a few lemon beers ( lots of softdrink lemon and topped with a light beer) and enjoyed it more using facetime video to Michael, as he had just finished work and cracked one open too. Aint technology grand?

Lilly remembers the town from last year, and as we walked around, it came back very quickly. 

One thing that we all remembered was the amazing sizzling steak place. After seeking it out, we had what had to have been hands down, THE most amazing steak ever. No dressing or condiments needed.. Just bread to mop up the juices ( sorry vego mates) I don't eat meat often, but for this, I make the exception.

Its a late night tonight. Full moon and important soccer ( football) match on.. Noone sleeps those nights.

About 15 or so km tomorrow, which we will attempt to do when its cooler and early.

We sleep our last night in an Albergue tomorrow night in Santiago. Its very very wierd to think this has now finished.

RIP ... My Mar Mar

One of the most awful things which can happen while you are overseas is for a family member to get seriously ill or die.

Very sadly, my beautiful grandmother; my Mar Mar passed on a few days ago. It was a time on the trek where we didn't have wifi for three days, so was an especially  terrible phone call for my family to make to us. 

I explored the options for is to fly back to be at the funeral, but we would then need to come back to the UK almost immediately as I have commitments (like speaking at the International Short Story Conference in Vienna) it was all tight and difficult. I decided against it as I could hear Mar Mar going off at me telling me how wasteful doing that would be.

Michael has been wonderful and immediately offered to go as a proxy for us. He has organised roses and is wearing a suit... What a guy.  As a compromise, Michael is taking his ipad and will live stream sime of the service for us. It will be 3 am here, but thats a small detail. 

I would normally give a speech, so have sent the below to my sisters to read. I think Mirriam is reading it for me.

Having this news, especially on the track ; and so close to Adrians death has brought up alot for both the kids and I. Again, I am thankful for the Camino community - for the close love and the distance. One night, as Lilly just sobbed and sobbed, a man just came to her and cuddled her till she stopped. He was so sweet. No words, just pure care. 

Anyway.. My speech...

Our Mar Mar wasn't like other peoples grandmother. She wasnt a Gran, Grannie, Nonna or Nan. She didn't have tea sets and play dollies. There weren't a million photos of grandkids or children on her walls. 

But she didn't need all that. She was our Mar Mar. A superwoman in disguise who paved the way for her kids grandkids and greatgrandkids.

She was a one of a kind, a way out of the square lady. She could track an animal through the bush. She often helped us find our horses when they'd run away. The bend of a blade of grass or scuff on the dirt would be huge signs to her and though she tried to pass this skill on to us, none of us could see the way she did.  She could catch a fish in places even the locals swore there where none. Her chooks laid eggs even in the dead of winter.  The size of her tomatoes, cucumbers and zucchini had to be seen to be believed . What she didn't know about horses and riding wasn't worth knowing. 

Who could forget her incredible picklets, mustard pickles or date pudding? Though we have those recipes, how could any of us measure up to her skills ? 

 Mar Mars gift was the way she weighed people up. She didnt need photos on the walls,  she had stories about people she cared about. 

Each of her grandchildren carry her independent spirit. She encouraged us to follow our hearts and passions. She never judged, but she let us know in black and white what she thought.

She was our Mar Mar, and she will be missed.